Sri Lanka, Life on Nautica, Captain's Dinner

The last few days have been fun.

Not knowing how my dad’s health would be, my parents didn’t plan a ship shore excursion in Sri Lanka. Following an old Dutch family holiday tradition, Casey had to follow rhyming clues around the ship on Christmas Day to find a gift. The reward for his problem solving was a shore excursion in Sri Lanka to Pinnawela, an elephant orphanage, and Kelaniya, a Buddhist Temple in Colombo.

The bus ride to Pinnawela lasted three hours. As we left the pier and drove through Colombo I could see that Sri Lanka is very poor. Though it didn’t appear as poverty stricken as Madagascar, it felt only a little better than Mozambique. Open stalls selling coconuts and bananas littered the highway, local buses were filled to overflowing with every seat taken, all standing room packed, with a few venturous riders hanging out the door. Large Buddhist statutes dotted the landscape and as we got out of Colombo I noticed how lush and green the countryside is.

When we arrived at Pinnawela it was clear we were in a major tourist attraction. While it wasn’t as organized as Sea World, it felt even more contrived. There are about 80 elephants in the orphanage, and tourists paying admission offset the costs of feeding them. I assumed that there would be many baby elephants, but there was only one. When we arrived there were at least 8 other tour buses and well over 500 people milling about the rocks above the river where the elephants are led a few times a day to drink.

Pinnawela staff in green shirts tried to persuade tourists to pose with elephants and then insisted on tips. They were almost as persistent as the hawkers at the Pyramids. One of them grabbed Casey and led him over the rocks toward a cluster of large elephants. He tried to get Casey to touch the trunk, but Casey was leery.

Just a few years ago Casey was so afraid of spiders that seeing one almost brought on a panic attack, and though he loves animals, elephants are big—and they smell unique. Close up in packs their scent reminds me of the smell of new dollar bills—not totally unpleasant, but not something that smells good either.

As Casey drew back, two men pulled me forward. A third man thrust a bad of bananas in my hand and the next thing I knew three large elephant trunks were molesting me for fruit. As I placed the small bananas in their trunks as quickly as possible, I noticed that I had become the primary attraction for scores of other tourists. Everyone was snapping pictures of the big American engulfed in elephant trunks. Seeing that the sight was generating a lot of attention, the man with the

bananas slipped another bag between the trunks and into my hand. This is going to be expensive, I thought. I decided to enjoy it and I let the elephants squeeze me, caress me and wheedle as many bananas as possible from my hands. When they tried to give me a third bag of bananas, I let them drop on the rocks and quicker than an elephant trunk, the banana man retrieved it and glared at me.

As the crowd disbursed the three men approached me. “Tip, sir. Tip.” Their voices were soft but their eyes were hard. I forgot to change large bills on the ship, so I had no one-dollar bills. Only fives and higher. I gave them $5 and they shook their head. “Five dollars for each banana bag,” banana man said. I gave him another $5 and then his compatriots wanted more, but I refused. In a country where many earn $50 a month, $10 was enough for a few bananas and a tip.

As I tried to get away from the hawkers a well-dressed man approached me and shook my hand. Rather than letting go, he turned my palm over and started reading it. While I wasn’t looking for palm reading, I liked what he said so I let him keep talking. He said everything wonderful I would ever want to hear about my future, but then he warned me if I told anyone that my good fortune was in jeopardy. In the unlikely event he knows what he’s talking about, I won’t share any of it with you. Just imagine every good fortune you’d like and you’ll have a good idea of his predictions for my future. “Kind sir, most people like to pay me fifty or one-hundred US dollars for this service.”

I laughed at him. “Sorry. I can’t afford that. Here is ten dollars and that’s probably nine too many.” He smiled as he walked away to capture another mark. After a buffet lunch at a hotel overlooking the elephants, we were led to the actual orphanage. Other than more photo opportunities, and a chance to pay extra to bottle-feed aggressive young elephants, things were about the same in the

orphanage as they were by the river. Green shirted staff tried to get me to touch elephants, take photos, and when I did, they dunned me for tips.

There were some nice masks and carvings in the curio shops between the river and the orphanage, but the prices were exorbitant. I found a wall carving I liked that was priced at $700. I offered them $200, they countered at $400, I countered at $250 and they refused. I walked. I liked it, and if I had really wanted it would have bought it, but I couldn’t even figure where to put it in my house. My walls are already full enough and these days I have to really want something before I choose to buy it.

We left the elephants and took the long bus ride back to Colombo to see the Kelaniya Temple. The street surrounding it was teeming with people. Our tour bus was stuck numerous times in the crowd. One of the bus staff kept exiting the bus

and attempting to clear the crowd so we could pass through. A parade was going on and there were young bare-chested men in white smocks wearing red hats holding large fans, followed by young women swirling in green dresses. Eastern music accompanied the parade and I wished I could join the onlookers instead of watching the pageant from the bus.

We finally parked and toured the temple. We had to remove our shoes at the

entrance to the plaza. Red sand was spread all around, so it was comfortable to walk without shoes. As I climbed the stone temple steps I was drawn to the carvings, paintings and smell of hundreds of incense sticks. Inside every inch was decorated with stories of the

Buddha’s life. It is believed that the Buddha actually preached the Dharma at this temple, so Buddhists especially revere it. Inside there were many people praying and engaged in various rituals of devotion. We passed a large reclining Buddha and wandered through several tall antechambers each decorated with different elaborate paintings and carvings of the Buddha’s life.

Because of all the traffic in the streets our eight-hour advertised tour actually took ten hours. One of the advantages of taking a ships tour is there isn’t any stress when you are running late. About a mile from the port we got stuck in front of a Pizza Hut. Out front the bicycle delivery boys laughed and waved at us, as they tried to get us to leave the bus and have a slice of Pepperoni. Casey was willing but we were far too close to Nautica’s departure time to stop for food. Besides, if I were eating in Colombo it wouldn’t be Pizza Hut!

The next few days we were at sea, sailing in the Bay of Bengal from Sri Lanka to Burma. I’ve read several books and watched a few videos about Burma and I have very mixed feelings about going. The military regime that runs the country is one of the most oppressive, totalitarian governments in the world. Freedom of speech is non-existent. Burma could be one of the greatest success stories in Asia. Instead, the people have been exploited, abused, bullied and manipulated to serve the money and power lust of just a few corrupt men. I am going but I’m going to spend as little money as possible anywhere that the government might benefit. My mom read one of my Burma books and she is upset about going too. So many of the freedoms I enjoy as an Americans I simply take for granted. I can’t imagine not being able to criticize the government or write whatever I want. But in Burma, it is the status quo.

The ship has been offering extra activities for people bored by sea days. There were movies with popcorn in the lounge, gaming events, cooking demonstrations, guest talent show and extra enrichment lectures. Personally, I love sea days. I like to read, write, sleep in, have a leisurely lunch and visit with family and friends. But many passengers seem to enjoy the extra activities.

One of the things Oceania is very good at is captured in their company slogan “Your World, Your Way.” They try very hard to provide each guest with an experience they will enjoy. For example, the ship offers both bingo and a casino. I’ve never seen more than one card table in use, the few slot machines here aren’t busy, and bingo doesn’t seem to have too many players. While I know they make money at it, I’m sure part of the reason they offer games of chance is that some guests want it. Many cruise lines base much of their revenue on art auctions, sale of guest photographs, the casino and alcohol sales. As a result, bar waiters hustle to sell drinks, art auctions interrupt the day and décor, photographers dressed like polar bears or pirates interrupt meals and the casino is heavily promoted. While it’s true Oceania is a premium cruise line and charges more on average than Princess, Holland America, Celebrity, RCI, Carnival, Norwegian, etc. I’d be curious to compare actual guest spending after combining cruise fare with onboard spending. My own theory is that Oceania isn’t as expensive as it appears, and it’s much more pleasant to be aboard a small, luxurious ship without aggressive bar staff, over-hyped casinos, art auctions or ship photographers. Too me it is more than worth whatever extra it costs.

Every day Nautica has a beautiful high tea in the Horizon Lounge on Deck 10, offering a 180-degree view from the bow. On sea days at sunrise and sunset it’s glorious. When Regatta goes to Alaska later this year it will be the perfect place to watch the glaciers calve. It’s funny when I hear Casey tell me at 3:55 he needs to get going so he doesn’t miss tea. Between breakfast in the Grand Dining Room, morning pastries at Horizons, Terrace for lunch, Waves for and burgers, the all-day milkshake and ice cream bar, Tea (with pastries, etc.), main dinner in any of four superb restaurants (Casey has been known to have dinner in a second restaurant alone after eating dinner with us) and room service, my kid has never suffered a hunger pang. Just in case he does he has stashed individual boxes of Frosted Flakes delivered by room service for any snacking emergencies.

The room service menu is quite good. Steaks, hamburgers, French onion soup, chef salad, ice cream, crème brulee, sandwiches, cappuccino and fresh fruit are available 24-hours a day. One of the new offerings on the dining room menu since my last trip is the Canyon Ranch spa cuisine. In conjunction with Canyon Ranch, a well-known and holistic spa based in Tucson, every day features a new spa cuisine, balanced for health, nutrition, taste and variety (with dietary information listed). A few nights ago I selected the Canyon Ranch grilled halibut instead of the French preparation. It was fantastic and having a healthy, low-calorie options easily available is a wonderful addition to Oceania’s incredible cuisine.

The other night as I left the dining room I asked about a sorbet and meringue dessert I enjoyed. Everything from the bake goods to the salad dressings to the ice creams and sorbets are created from scratch. I’m particularly fond of the black currant, apricot and raspberry sorbets—I’ve never had any this good anywhere else. The maître de seemed delighted that I asked about it, took my stateroom number and offered to phone me to let me know if it would be offered any of the nine remaining nights of our 35-day cruise. The next day she phoned to say it was added to the dining room menu, simply because I asked about it.

When I needed to get copies of our passports for our private tour in Burma, the purser’s desk offered not just to make copies, but also to scan them and email me the files. It was exactly what I needed. Over and over again, in every department of the ship, there is a desire to consistently exceed my expectations.

Truly I don’t know how Oceania does is it. I tend to give credit to management. The CEO and founder, Frank Del Rio, is in my opinion to the cruise ship industry what Walt Disney was to the theme park industry. Even today though Disney has stiff competition from Universal and Six Flags, it leads the industry in service and guest satisfaction. Oceania does too. Over two-thirds of my fellow passengers are repeat guests. I’d rather sail on Oceania in a 200 square foot cabin than most cruise lines in a 300 square foot junior suite. The service, food and overall experience are just that much better on Oceania.

Part of Oceania’s success has to be attributed to the size of her ships. While the trend for most companies the past decade is larger and larger ships, some holding over 4,000 passengers, Oceania’s three ships each hold about 650 guests. Service is personal and with fewer guests it’s easier for bar staff and waiters to quickly learn personal preferences. Oceania’s new ships, Marina and Riviera, will each hold about 1,200 passengers, but I’m optimistic that intimacy and service won’t diminish.

Last night Casey, my parents, his friend Anthony and his mom Patricia and I enjoyed dinner with Captain Jurica Brajcic. I asked him what he thought about the new ships and how guests would like them.

“I think for the passengers this is a very good thing,” he replied. “Our guests will enjoy bigger staterooms, larger bathrooms and we will have much more room in all the public spaces. There will be more restaurants, mover variety, and we can do more things for the guests. I think the guests will really like it.”

“Do you think having more passengers aboard might reduce service or the intimacy that everyone loves on Nautica?” I asked.

“No, honestly Jack. I really don’t think so. These ships are being built from the ground up by people who are the best in the cruise industry. They consulted every department—they even asked me some questions—and I think that these will be some of the best ships for our guests at sea. I think Oceania customers will love the new ships. Of course, some guests will always have old favorites, and I think Regatta, Insignia and Nautica will be popular too. I know you love Nautica, so do I, but I think you will like the new ships too, and it gives all of us, even me, the chance to try something different.” Marina’s inaugural sailing is later this month. I agree with Captain Brajcic that they will be phenomenal ships—maybe the best at sea.

I had never dined with the Captain before, so I didn’t know that each place is assigned at his table. I was placed between Casey and Anthony, and the Captain placed himself between the two women. I teased him that he put himself between the two ladies and he laughed. We enjoyed a wonderful meal and the Captain regaled us with stories of fishing, life at sea and growing up and living in Dubrovnik.

Before dinner Casey and I discussed what questions he wanted to ask. He was curious about what happens to stowaways, what the large bulb on the hull is and what are the biggest waves the Captain had been in. Just before we left I said, “Casey, if the Captain asks you what your best trip is, tell him this one, OK? It is, isn’t it?” I couldn’t imagine any better trip Casey has ever taken.

He shook his head no. “No, this isn’t my best trip dad.”

“Are you sure? What trip have you done better than this?”

Casey looked directly in my eyes, grabbed my hand and said, “Dad, the best trip I ever took was from Tacoma to Bellingham when you picked me up and took me home to live with you.” My heart melted. Sometimes I love Casey so much.

“That is one of the nicest things you’ve ever said to me. I love you. Thank you.”

When the Captain asked Anthony and Casey if they had any questions, Casey immediately went through his list. Stowaways are problematic but Oceania doesn’t get too many—cargo ships get more, the large bulb on the hull helps disburse the water and reduce vibration and in response to the largest wave the Captain said, “I think maybe 20 feet, but I didn’t measure it. One time I was on a freighter from Vancouver to Asia. The weather was very bad. The bridge and the quarters were

all aft and a huge wave washed over the port side. The front of the ship went completely under water. We stood there, waiting and hoping. We didn’t know if the front would ever come back up! Finally we saw the sea parting and the ship started to emerge. We were so glad to see it as for a little while we looked like a submarine.” Casey and Anthony were enthralled. The Captain is an excellent host.

Over dinner Anthony’s mother asked if I would consider letting Casey come to either Miami or Buenos Aires (they have homes both places) and stay with them for a few weeks this Summer. I told her that sounded like a possibility and that I thought traveling to Argentina or Miami alone might be a good experience for Casey. He has come so far in so short a time, and I’d love for him to have as many positive experiences as possible. I suspect he would enjoy either for a few weeks, and as much as I love him I can always use a short break. After dinner we all watched a first-rate show from a singer who played the lead in Phantom of the Opera in Australia over 500 times.

Today was lightly raining so the outdoor ship activities were moved indoors. The crew put together a country fair and there were games of chance, tests of

knowledge and dexterity spread from the Casino the The Grand Bar. A few days ago the cruise staff announced that there was a ship building contest and the passengers who created the best boat would win a prize. Casey and Anthony registered. The only conditions were that whatever anyone used to construct their ship had to be discarded. Life jackets and similar items were banned.

Casey and Anthony have made

many friends on board and they cajoled Styrofoam, duct tape, cardboard and a few other things for their boat from various housekeepers, passengers and staff. Oceania staff is always eager to help, and sometimes they may accommodate passengers a little too much. Without naming anyone specifically, Casey and Anthony were able to get two cans of spray paint for their boat.

“Where can we paint dad?” Casey asked.

“What are you doing with spray paint!”

“Painting our boat, Dad,” he replied as if I were stupid. Anthony nodded in agreement. Visions of my son’s past life painting graffiti in Tacoma flashed though my mind. He’s not that kid today, I reminded myself. Still, two young boys with time on their hands and two cans of spray paint are too big a risk to go unchecked. I told them I would help with the painting. I had brought a few plastic garbage

bags in my suitcase, so we carefully covered our shower floor and I slowly painted most of their boat myself. I “assisted” them in immediately returning the spray paint after the boat was done.

Because of the rain the sea trials for the boats (scheduled for the swimming pool on Deck 9) are delayed a few days. I hope the boys win, but there is some stiff competition. It’s amazing the way people spend their time. Some like to read, some like to stay busy, others play hours of bridge and over a hundred of us play trivia daily. The more I am aboard the more I appreciate the many ways we can do whatever makes us happy.

Tomorrow Casey, my parents, Carol, Sukey and I leave the ship and spend the night in Burma. We are going to Bagan and will spend two days touring the temples there. I’ll miss my comfortable bed (the bedding on Oceania is almost as good as the Westin “Heavenly Bed”) and the good meals, but I’m excited to experience one of the most interesting spiritual destinations on the planet. It’s hard to believe that in a week and a half our trip will be over.

Thanks for reading.

Jack